History

  Medieval history, magical tales, exciting romances, violent wars and many more ingredients are masterfully blended together to result into the Rock of Dunamase, a high limestone crop, rising 46 metres (151 ft) above the local plains, with a spectacular view across to the Slieve Bloom Mountains.
  Here Dunamase Castle stands, silently controlling the surrounding areas. The name of the fortress derives from the Gaelic “Dhún Másc”, which stands for Fort of Másc, in reference to an early Christian leader [1, 2].
  Although some historians believe that the very first use of this site might date back as far as 2000 years, with earlier occupiers including Phoenician sailors and traders, as supported by a map drawn by the Greek cartographer Ptolemy who mentioned a ‘Dunum’ in the area of Dunamase from the 2nd century BC [2, 3, 4], the panel installed by the Office of Public Works (OPW) at the entrance of the rock states that the actual castle was founded in the late 12th century, on the site of a 9th century fortress (a hill fort or dún). As aforementioned, the site was initially used by the early Christian community, till it was plundered by the Vikings, probably around 842, as stated in the Annals of the Four Masters (known also as the Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland), a collection of chronicles of Medieval Irish history [1, 5, 6]. During those dramatic events, the abbot of Terryglass, who sought shelter here, got slaughtered by the Vikings [7]. Recently, a 9th century silver penny has been found at Dunamase during archaeological excavations in the 1990s, contributing to prove the early site’s occupation [6].
  During the 12th century, when Aoife MacMurrough, daughter of Dermot MacMurrough, married Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke, also known as Strongbow, the leader of the Norman invasion force, the castle became an Anglo-Norman possession as part of the dowry [3, 5]. Possibly during the 1170s Strongbow appointed Geoffrey de Constentin to fortify the site [7]. By 1181, Meiler FitzHenry was ordered to hold the castle, defending it from the bordering powerful Irish tribes [7].
  In August 1189, Isabel, daughter of Aoife and Strongbow, married William Marshal, errant knight, serving King Henry II as a loyal captain, becoming with that Earl of Pembroke. Despite their considerable age difference, William and Isabel had a happy marriage and went on to have ten children together [1].
  As part of their marriage, William Marshal became the Lord of Leinster and the Rock of Dunamase was further improved under him, becoming a massive defensive fortress with the aid of the Norman defensive building technology [1]. Probably, the structures we see today can be attributed to the Marshal family [1]. Anyway, some sources claim that most of the castle was built before the advent of Marshal [5].
The Marshal family held the Rock of Dunamase untill the mid-13th century, as it can be read on the explanatory panel out of the rock.
  It is worth to have a break and let the reader know an interesting anecdote about Dermot MacMurrough. As stated in [1], Dermot was a controversial character, who managed to turn the High Kings of Ireland against him. In more detail, after Ruaidrí Ua Conchobair (Rory O'Connor), king of Connacht, was acknowledged as High King of Ireland by most of the Irish kings, Dermot was outsted as king of Leinster after the so called abduction of Dervogilla [1, 8]. Dermot had kidnapped the wife of Tigernán Ua Ruairc (Tiernan O'Rourke), king of Bréifne (Breffny), loyal ally of Rory O'Connor and he even took with them her substantial dowry [1]. Dermot and Dervogilla took refuge in the Rock of Dunamase [1]. After being deposed as king of Leinster, Dermot asked king Henry II to help him in regaining his kingship. After swearing loyalty to Henry, Dermot was authorised to recruit forces to restore his power over Leinster. The Norman Lord Strongbow agreed to help, in change of the kingship of Leinster upon Dermot's death and, as part of the dowry, got married to Aoife in Waterford in 1170 [8]. The scene of “The Marriage of Strongbow and Aoife” has been masterfully painted by Daniel Maclise and can be admired at the National Gallery of Ireland [9]. The Rock of Dunamase was part of the deal [1, 8]. As some readers might already know, these events had a major impact on the future Irish history, as they are associated to the Norman invasion of Ireland and, ultimately, the beginning of the struggle between England and Ireland, which has lasted over 800 years [1, 3].
  As the panel states, some years after William Marshal died on the 14th of May 1219, the rock passed through marriage to the Mortimers. In more detail, as the five sons that Isabel and William had, have passed away, the lands were divided between the five daughters [10]. One of them, Eva Marshall, married the Welsh March lord William de Braose and, as the couple did not have male descendants, the castle passed through marriage to Roger Mortimer [10]. The panel at the entrance of the site states that the Mortimers owned the castle till 1330, when Roger Mortimer (grandson of the other Roger Mortimer, mentioned earlier), first Earl of March, was executed for treason, by the order of king Edward III, with the accusation of having assumed royal power and other crimes [10]. The castle was then forfeited to the crown [5] and, after that, it changed hands several times.
  With the Gaelic resurgence, the local O’Mordha (O’Mores or O’Moore) family took possession of the rock, therefore returning in Irish hands [1, 4, 7]. The castle might have been sieged by Cromwell’s generals Reynolds and Hewson in 1651, which would explain how it fell into ruin, but no records support this theory [5, 7]. Perhaps, it was under the O'Mores that it was destroyed, to prevent it from falling into enemy hands and being used again as a defensive structure [1].
  At the end of the 18th century, the hall was partially restored as a residence by Sir John Parnell, speaker of the Irish Parliament and great grandfather of Charles Stewart Parnell, Chancellor of the Irish Exchequer and Lord of the Treasury, who wanted to turn the site into a banquet hall. Anyway after his death, his son let it fall into its final decay [4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11].
  During the 19th century, the small lime kiln near the gatehouse was probably used by local farmers to derive lime starting from the stones taken out of the walls of the castle [7]. This lime added to the field served to increase fertility [7]. As a result, the stronghold was reduced to what we can see today, which still conveys a sense of grandeur from the glorious past.
  Where history ends, legends begins: Is the castle haunted? Difficult to say... Some people claim that a black hellish hound called Bandog watches over the rock, protecting a treasure buried under the castle [3, 5]. Maybe it is also true, as someone says, that Celtic riches are buried near the rock [5]. Please, let us know if you find out more while visiting the castle, enjoy the astonishing view from the top of the rock and beware of the dog!

References


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Tips

  Let us introduce you to the idyllic Rock of Dunamase! The perfect place to soak up both the history and the stunning scenery.
  It is a bit off the beaten path, but once you reach the place, park your car beside the entrance, it is safe and free and after an easy climb, you can take a self guided tour of the ruins.
You will be captivated by the 360° panoramic view of the Irish countryside. Mind your step tough, surfaces can be slippery! Make sure to have your camera ready, the scene is unreal and you will be going home with some amazing memories of one of the most spectacular Anglo-Norman fortifications in the country.